An African New Years' Eve shared wth a stranger...


On a plane this week I was reading a magazine called The Africa Report when I came across a half page announcement of an available position for an organization called NEPAD, an acronym for New Partnership for African Development which is - in general terms - an economic development program of the African Union.  I closed the magazine and began to stare out of the airplane window as I reminisced of the evening I learned about NEPAD.
Irene Country Lodge

On that trip I first traveled to the fabulous Kruger National Park, a great place to drain my veins of all the stress and pressures of my daily life back in the States.  After four glorious days in Kruger, I flew to Madagascar where I spent two weeks traveling the island and trekking for lemurs.  By the time I got back to South Africa to spend New Years’ Eve at Irene County Lodge I was exhausted and in desperate need of a proper shower.  

The Irene Country Lodge is an upmarket lodge and day spa in a beautiful setting of oak-lined country lanes yet only thirty minutes from the bustling city of Johannesburg.  In my room were two beautifully dressed fluffy beds, a comfy chair and a large sparkling bathroom with a thick robe hanging on the door.  There were French doors on the back wall with glass panes that overlooked a lake where several ducks swam, others walked on the pristine lawn.  The serenity and luxury of the lodge was a welcome change although not the kind of place I normally stayed during my many African adventures.  But it was New Years’ Eve, after all, and my booking agent, Dean, suggested the lodge since I had that evening and the entire next day to enjoy myself and relax before my long flight back to the States the next night. 

My Room
I knew before leaving the States the lodge was hosting a big dinner that evening which I paid for in advance along with my room.  In packing for the trip I enclosed a wrinkle free skirt and shirt and a decent pair of shoes in a large zip lock and tucked it away in my backpack for the occasion.  When the night came though I did not want to dress up and eat alone and almost backed out of the dinner. Eating alone doesn't normally bother me but again, it was New Years’ Eve.  Instead of backing out though I made a bold plan.  Before my long awaited shower I walked down to the restaurant and asked the host if there was anyone other than myself dining alone that evening.  He looked at his list then told me yes, one of his regular patrons was dining alone; an older gentleman.   I asked the host to speak to that man to see if he would like company for dinner making it clear my intentions were purely as a dining companion. 

I returned to my room showered, blew my hair dry and put on make-up then dressed in my zip locked finery.  When I looked in the mirror I barely recognized myself after almost three weeks of wearing grubby clothes and pony tails.   I walked down to the open-air restaurant on that crisp, clear African summer night noticing the restaurants’ lights dancing off the smooth surface of the lake.  When I arrived, the host was excited to take me to the gentleman’s' table and introduce me.  
View of my room from the lake

As I write this today I cannot remember the man’s name; somewhere I still have his card.  He was tall and thin.  I guessed him to be about sixty-five years old.  He was retired and his wife had recently passed away.  He told me he lived not far from the lodge and had been enjoying Sunday brunch there for years.  Before retiring he worked for NEPAD. Over a couple glasses of wine and a delicious meal we conversed about his position at NEPAD, an organization which, before that conversation, I had never heard of.  We talked about African politics, life in South Africa before and after Apartheid and so much more.  I, and I believe he, enjoyed a very pleasant evening filled with good food, wonderful South African wine and hours of insightful conversation. 

I smiled as I stared out of the airplane window, still today grateful I found it in myself to jump out of my comfort zone and have dinner with a complete stranger on New Years’ Eve in Africa.  I haven't thought about that night in a long time.  As I went back to reading the magazine I filed away those fond memories in hopes my dinner companion is still doing well. 

Today I received the sad news that Dean Foster of African Bundu Safaris passed away this weekend from what is currently believed to be a massive stroke.  I am so very saddened by this news.   

Dean in Namibia March 2012
I first “met” Dean back in 2001 when he/his company responded to an inquiry I had submitted for an African Safari.  Under Dean’s expert guidance I booked a three week tour around South Africa.   Upon my return Dean helped me plan my next trip departing only seven weeks later which was an extended African stay based in Knysna, South Africa.  Dean booked two trips while I was living there and has booked African trips for me every year since; up and including the one I just returned from in November of 2011. 

Dean was not just my booking agent though.  He also became a friend; staying in touch, sending cards on special occasions and sharing thoughts on Facebook and through email.  One year he mailed me a CD of African animal sounds because he wanted to cheer me after I had mentioned I didn’t think I was going to be able to come to Africa that year. 

We joked last year of how darned old we had become:  I turned fifty on June 9th, he on June 20th.  Well my friend, you get to stay fifty now and you don’t have to worry about my African trips anymore or anyone else’s.  You get to travel to wherever you want to go and see whatever you want to see from what must be an amazing vantage point. 

Rest in Peace Dean – You cannot be replaced and will never be forgotten.  Today my heart cries for you, your family and friends. 

April 27th - Freedom Day in South Africa


In Kruger reading "My Heart is in Africa" - How appropriate!

Eighteen years ago on April 27th South Africa – a country that is like a second home to me – held its first multiracial elections, marking the end of apartheid.  Exactly 19,726,579 South Africans went to the polls to vote, crippling the system with the unexpected turnout.  People slept in the open while in line waiting – some for days - for their turn to help change the future of South Africa.  And although there was violence, out of frustration from polling places running out of paper for which to cast votes and between the rival party members, the election was deemed fair.  On May 10, 1994 Nelson Mandela gave his inaugural speech as he accepted the Presidency.  Here is an excerpt:



Favorite Lion Photo - South Africa
…Our daily deeds as ordinary South Africans must produce an actual South African reality that will reinforce humanity’s belief in justice, strengthen its confidence in the nobility of the human soul and sustain all our hopes for a glorious life for all.  All this we owe both to ourselves and to the peoples of the world who are so well represented here today.  To my compatriots, I have no hesitation in saying that each one of us is as intimately attached to the soul of this beautiful country as are the famous jacaranda trees of Pretoria and the mimosa trees of the bushveld.  Each time one of us touches the soil of this land, we feel a sense of personal renewal…


 I too feel a sense of personal renewal every time I touch the soil of South Africa.  South Africa was the country I chose to go to when I needed my life break back in 2001.  I spent months relishing in her beauty and serenity.  I have been back time and time again when the need for personal renewal arises.



The view from my backyard - Knysna, South Africa

Today South Africa still has issues.  The crime rate is extraordinarily high, corruption in the government is reportedly rampant, HIV/Aids is killing a generation of her people and the unemployment rate is near twenty-five percent.  Those are the facts today as they were when I was there for my extended stay in 2001.  Regardless, beauty is abound in South Africa from the lush hills around the southern parts of Kruger National Park with its amazing wildlife to the arid deserts of the Kalahari, the rocky coastal regions around Knysna - the town I lived in for a short time - and down to the spectacular views of one of the most scenic cities of the world; Cape Town.  And there is much beauty in her people too.  I have been so fortunate to meet many, all of whom have treated me with respect, warmth and generosity always sharing a smile and wanting to make sure I enjoy my time in their country. 


I miss South Africa when I go too long without seeing her; like a best friend I had to move away from and don’t see often enough.


April 27th is a national holiday in South Africa – Freedom Day – to commemorate the first post-apartheid elections.  I wish all my South African friends a day of reflection, peace, joy, and laughter!  You will be in my thoughts on this day as with so many of my days.




Out of Africa


The movie Out of Africa came out in 1985.  I was a mere girl of twenty four years old.  Regardless, I was changed when I walked out of that theater.  I pronounced it my favorite movie of all time then and that statement remains the same today. 
Out of Africa was directed and produced by the late Sidney Pollack who was challenged by the screen play that many said could not successfully be made into a movie.  The story is of real characters loosely based on the book Out of Africa – as well as other books, all of which I have read - written by Karen Blixen, (played by Meryl Streep in the movie) under the pseudonym Isak Dinesen in 1937.  This movie was my first real look at Africa beyond what Marlin Perkins taught me on Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom.  It was a story about a strong female character that was beyond brave moving from Denmark to Kenya in 1913, albeit with her husband who was really her lover’s brother as all know who has watched the movie! 


Yesterday I was watching a video produced by a friend promoting tourism in Kenya.  Towards the end of the video, music from Out of Africa began to play.  I was transformed right into the movie at the exact spot where that music played; when Karen was in the plane with Denys Finch Hatton, (played by Robert Redford)  soaring over the wilds of southern Kenya.  I even knew exactly when in the song she reached back in the open cockpit of the plane to hold Denys’ hand. 
My first view of Nairobi from my hotel my first morning
Yes.  I know that movie by heart.  I own it in VHS and on DVD.  I have watched the version Sidney Pollack narrates of how the movie was made.  I have watched the extended version.  And I have watched the original version that affected me so much back in 1985 at least forty times over the years  – and that is a wild guess – maybe even a conservative guess.


Me..., on Karen Blixen's porch!!!!!
In 2004, nineteen years after seeing the movie, I visited Kenya.  I arrived in Nairobi late one night staying at the Stanley Hotel; a historic hotel built in 1906 accommodating many of Kenya’s historic visitors including Ernest Hemmingway and yes, Karen Blixen and many characters of Out of Africa.  I ate breakfast my first morning in Kenya at The Thorn Tree restaurant in the hotel; also historic for the characters fed there over the years.  I was picked up after breakfast by a driver who took me straight to Karen, a suburb of Nairobi named after Karen Blixen.  He took me to her farm which is now a museum.  As I walked around her old house I could hear her voice.  I could feel her presence.  From the yard, I saw the Ngong Hills where Denys is buried and where the narrative of the movie starts:  “I had a farm in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Hills.”  Tears flowed.  I was standing on the ground where Karen Blixen stood.  I looked at – with my own eyes – the desk where she wrote much of her story.  I stood on the porch where she first learned of Denys’ death.  That was not a day I shall soon forget. 
It’s been a couple of years since I have seen the movie.  It is almost three hours long but I think it is time I find three hours to again dedicate to a story that I credit to changing my life’s passions.  Anybody want to watch it with me?  I promise not to recite each and every line or tell you how it ends….



Have you ever been charged?


I am a member of SANP - South African National Parks – group on Facebook.  I also visit the SAN Parks website on a regular basis – the forum section mainly, to see the latest news on Kruger National Park, my favorite place in the world.  People post photos of animal sightings and begin conversations on various topics. This week, someone asked if anyone had actually been charged by a wild African animal.  I sat in my chair and pondered the question.

First, I wanted to know the true definition of the word charged.  There are many.  The definition that applies in this case is:  To rush forward attempting a violent attack.  The answer to the question then is, definitely yes – I have been charged.  And when I put my memory to test, I am surprised at how many times. 

That is indeed him!
The first time I was charged I actually have on video, (somewhere).  I was in an open vehicle with a couple of other people and a guide/driver.  We came upon a huge male lion that had segregated a female away from her pride to mate.  Mating lions would have made a nice photograph so we hung out for a minute to see what would happen.  The male lion was not happy about our presence and let us know with a couple of deep belly rumbling low growls.  The pupils of his eyes were small making the green of his eyes large and menacing.  But we paid no attention to this and continued taking photos.  There were other signs he was about to charge; his twitching tail and his body posture just to name two but we didn’t pay any attention.  When the lion did lunge forward roaring at the top of his lungs he then got our attention.  The lion pounced up with force in our direction with a growl that would change the rhythm of your heartbeat.  The correct response to a lion charge is to stand your ground.  We stood our ground alright but that was only because we were stunned stupid. It worked though. The lion stopped about twenty feet from us, kicking up dust as he skidded to a stop.  He then turned around in a noisy huff and went back to his girl.  I transformed from frozen in complete horror to shaking like a leaf in a wind storm.  Many lessons were learned that day. 

That, however, was not my only charge.  I have been charged by monkey in Kruger National Park while walking along minding my own business.  Monkeys charged me once when I was trying to shoo them away from my food at a camp in Kruger.  I have had my canoe charged by elephant in the Okavango Delta in Botswana and again by a hippo in Zambia.  I was even charged by a crazy spider that was huge and hanging around the campfire in northern Botswana acting completely neurotic charging everyone sitting around the fire that night. 

All of these incidents scared the daylights out of me at the time.  Now, they are fuel for my old age fire; stories I can tell and relive for as long as I am alive.  I don’t regret any of them.  I would almost go so far as to say that if you have not been charged by a wild African animal then you have not truly experienced Africa!