One of the Best Camps in Kruger..., maybe in Africa; Punda Maria

The Gates to Punda Maria

There is a camp in the far northern section of Kruger National Park near the borders of Zimbabwe and Mozambique called Punda Maria; originally established in 1913 from which to catch smugglers and poachers who came for the large herds of elephant, the elusive nyala antelope and other prized animal trophies.  In the 1930's Punda Maria became the first rest camp in Kruger National Park.  The area, in the far northern parts of South Africa is rich in history including the recently discovered Thulamela ruins; a stone walled city built and occupied from 1250 to 1700 AD. 

Historic Hut #1

I spent two glorious nights in this camp in 2008 staying in hut #1.  These original thatched roof and mud walled huts were built in 1933 giving this small camp the feel of Africa long gone.  I sat on the porch of my hut and sipped a glass of South African wine then looked through the eyes of the first European settlers and thought Punda Maria must be similar to what they saw when they first arrived at any small village this deep into the heart of the Dark Continent.  The air was fresh from pollution but impregnated with the sounds of Africa's wild.  The plethora of birds around the camp would turn even the least likely of birdwatchers into true twitters. 

One of the Fixed Tents

As darkness overtook the bush land, the lions roar traveled far in the clear night air then echoed back on itself.  When the sun fell fully beyond Africa's sky I stepped out from the thatched overhang and looked up.  Tears flood my eyes as I think of it now.  With no pollution to cloud the way and no unnatural light to dim them, the stars hung bright seemingly right over my head; millions and millions of them.   I actually reached up to see if I could touch one then ran my hands through the gasses of the Milky Way. 

The next morning I packed drinks and lunch then drove to a watering hole about three kilometers down a dirt road a half an hour drive from camp where I sat under a sycamore fig tree and watched nothing in particular for hours upon hours.  Many animals wandered by; vervet monkeys, giraffe, buffalo, warthog and even a leopard.  I lounged in the passenger seat of my car binoculars and camera at the ready while I read "The Road" by Cormac McCarthy.  Back at camp I sat outside my hut that evening waiting for the stars that didn’t disappoint. 

Amazing Tent #4

Before leaving Punda Maria that - my first - trip I scouted about and found they had several fixed tents along the perimeter of the camp.  I’ve been back to Punda Maria twice since that first magical trip; in 2009 and again in 2013, each spending three glorious nights in one of those tents.  Imagine a real bed and bath under canvas with a full kitchen outside on the porch that overlooks the wilds of Africa in the magical setting this camp offers. 

Every day in Punda Maria - as well as in Kruger - are my best days.  Until next time....